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Radio power when starting vehicle
#11
(01-01-2018, 11:14 PM)mooch530 Wrote: So I tested my battery with a voltmeter... It is the original battery, and sitting in a garage that's around 40F (4C) the battery read 11.79V while not running. While starting it dropped down to 8.79V. I'll have the battery tested, but pretty sure this is the problem. Plus, right now it's -1F (-18C) and I don't want to get stranded.

Yeah, that's a bit low. It should hold at about 12.6 V while standing, so you're down pretty far, and definitely shouldn't drop that far when cranking, although with the extreme cold, that can throw things a bit out of whack, since it both takes more current to crank the engine, AND the battery will be neutered by the cold (each 10 degree C increase in temperature will double the rate of chemical reactions).

A few days here its been so damned cold (about -30 C) that the battery voltage on my truck won't recover fast enough after cranking the engine for the 4WD ECU to pass its self check, get the 4WD error light blinking when its cold and snowy... great. So gotta let it sit there a bit to warm up, then off, and start back up, then the 4WD ECU passes its test properly. But mine's an MT, so dead battery is no problem, just bump start it. I'll change the battery when the capacity drops so low that it can't run the snow plow pump.
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#12
You could work-around the problem.
  • Get a fairly large capacitor, such as those used by teenagers for their silly over-powered sub-amplifiers
  • Feed the 12V live via a diode to the capacitor
  • Connect the head unit 12V live input to the capacitor 
  • 12V ACC connects to switched feed as normal.
This way when your 12V live feed drops the capacitor will hold the voltage, and keep the stereo from rebooting.  If the capacitor is large enough, the head unit should behave normally, and simply follow the 12V ACC line for On / Standby modes ?

Pete
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#13
(01-04-2018, 04:57 PM)pwood999 Wrote: You could work-around the problem.
  • Get a fairly large capacitor, such as those used by teenagers for their silly over-powered sub-amplifiers
  • Feed the 12V live via a diode to the capacitor
  • Connect the head unit 12V live input to the capacitor 
  • 12V ACC connects to switched feed as normal.
This way when your 12V live feed drops the capacitor will hold the voltage, and keep the stereo from rebooting.  If the capacitor is large enough, the head unit should behave normally, and simply follow the 12V ACC line for On / Standby modes ?

Pete

There is a limit to how many capacitors you want to solder onto a shitty chinese radio. Its not THAT big of a deal if the fucker reboots.
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#14
(01-04-2018, 09:57 PM)lbdroid Wrote:
(01-04-2018, 04:57 PM)pwood999 Wrote: You could work-around the problem.
  • Get a fairly large capacitor, such as those used by teenagers for their silly over-powered sub-amplifiers
  • Feed the 12V live via a diode to the capacitor
  • Connect the head unit 12V live input to the capacitor 
  • 12V ACC connects to switched feed as normal.
This way when your 12V live feed drops the capacitor will hold the voltage, and keep the stereo from rebooting.  If the capacitor is large enough, the head unit should behave normally, and simply follow the 12V ACC line for On / Standby modes ?

Pete

There is a limit to how many capacitors you want to solder onto a shitty chinese radio. Its not THAT big of a deal if the fucker reboots.
Hi, 

I think i have a similar problem to this, but not sure. I wired this up using a harnesses, so nothing cabled manually, so wouldn't have thought it could be a wiring problem. I haven't tried the method mentioned by the OP, but will do later, but my unit is cold booting every time and i always lose the radio stations. Is there something i am missing here other than the potential battery issue? The battery was flat in this car, but i charged it and took it for a good drive, however the battery COULD be on its way out.  I haven't got my model number, but its a single din octa core on android 6.01.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
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#15
(01-05-2018, 06:32 AM)Spalf Wrote: Hi, 

I think i have a similar problem to this, but not sure. I wired this up using a harnesses, so nothing cabled manually, so wouldn't have thought it could be a wiring problem. I haven't tried the method mentioned by the OP, but will do later, but my unit is cold booting every time and i always lose the radio stations. Is there something i am missing here other than the potential battery issue? The battery was flat in this car, but i charged it and took it for a good drive, however the battery COULD be on its way out.  I haven't got my model number, but its a single din octa core on android 6.01.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
Erm - Never mind me. After reading this i done some further testing and found the problem. After coming back here, i see its a common thing... lesson learnt (again!). Never assume anything. The 12v and acc wires were transposed (either in the joying harness or car harness). I pulled the pins and swapped them and now all is good. So my problem was completely unrelated Smile
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#16
(01-05-2018, 10:19 AM)Spalf Wrote:
(01-05-2018, 06:32 AM)Spalf Wrote: Hi, 

I think i have a similar problem to this, but not sure. I wired this up using a harnesses, so nothing cabled manually, so wouldn't have thought it could be a wiring problem. I haven't tried the method mentioned by the OP, but will do later, but my unit is cold booting every time and i always lose the radio stations. Is there something i am missing here other than the potential battery issue? The battery was flat in this car, but i charged it and took it for a good drive, however the battery COULD be on its way out.  I haven't got my model number, but its a single din octa core on android 6.01.

Any help much appreciated.

Thanks
Erm - Never mind me. After reading this i done some further testing and found the problem. After coming back here, i see its a common thing... lesson learnt (again!). Never assume anything. The 12v and acc wires were transposed (either in the joying harness or car harness). I pulled the pins and swapped them and now all is good. So my problem was completely unrelated Smile

Yup. Thats CHINA for you Wink
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#17
(01-04-2018, 01:31 PM)lbdroid Wrote:
(01-01-2018, 11:14 PM)mooch530 Wrote: So I tested my battery with a voltmeter... It is the original battery, and sitting in a garage that's around 40F (4C) the battery read 11.79V while not running. While starting it dropped down to 8.79V. I'll have the battery tested, but pretty sure this is the problem. Plus, right now it's -1F (-18C) and I don't want to get stranded.

Yeah, that's a bit low. It should hold at about 12.6 V while standing, so you're down pretty far, and definitely shouldn't drop that far when cranking, although with the extreme cold, that can throw things a bit out of whack, since it both takes more current to crank the engine, AND the battery will be neutered by the cold (each 10 degree C increase in temperature will double the rate of chemical reactions).

A few days here its been so damned cold (about -30 C) that the battery voltage on my truck won't recover fast enough after cranking the engine for the 4WD ECU to pass its self check, get the 4WD error light blinking when its cold and snowy... great. So gotta let it sit there a bit to warm up, then off, and start back up, then the 4WD ECU passes its test properly. But mine's an MT, so dead battery is no problem, just bump start it. I'll change the battery when the capacity drops so low that it can't run the snow plow pump.

Ha!! Mine is doing the exact same thing!
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#18
I'm glad to report that after replacing the battery in my truck my radio is back to normal! what a relief!
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