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VW EOS new head unit wanted

I searched through all the forums and had a look at the Joying website and loads of reviewers, I can't find any reference to the build quality of these 2 units.  You have got me worried, so I maybe will go back to the 10" with no knobs.

At least with Joying they do seem to talk to their customers, as do Pumpkin, but they aren't as forthcoming with firmware as Joying.

Maybe I'm just a sad old fart with way too much time on his hands to be concerned about such stuff! Undecided
VW EOS 2ltr. 2007 Black Auto.  TV/video engineer, networking and Sysadmin tech.  Certifired Trainer, taxi driver, potable and swimming water systems engineer, Home theatre installations/repairs, Home automation C-Bus2 certified. now retired.
(12-31-2017, 04:05 PM)barfly Wrote: I searched through all the forums and had a look at the Joying website and loads of reviewers, I can't find any reference to the build quality of these 2 units.  You have got me worried, so I maybe will go back to the 10" with no knobs.

The build quality of all the units is about the same. The internals of the units are all the same, apart from the difference between DSP units (D) and the ones with the analog amps.
The very new Joyings come with a PX5 CPU instead of a Sofia 3GR CPU. There is not too much known yet about these PX5 units.

All joyings, more or less, have heat problems. This is not unique as all Chinese brands have it. But be prepared to install a heat sink and fan.

It's Chinese and the quality is probably less than what you get from a European or American brand, but you buy 3-4 Chinese ones against one of the Europeand/American ones.
Have a look at my Joying_Extra_Tools.apk and the rooting script
JY-VM130N2, ROM 20171220 6.0.1 with mods
OK all,

EDIT 15-1-18, Joying emailed me and said they could not see the pictures on the post linked to here, so I'll reproduce the whole thing on the next 3 posts.

I finally got the Joying unit recommended by their sales department and fitted it the other day.  Weather has been wet and cold and so the car has stayed in the drive mostly since the install.
I did a pretty full write-up on the VW EOS forum here:

As yet I haven't had too much chance to play with it, but I was very disappointed that the Joying factory in Europe had not bothered to change the base language from German to English, and also installed a German NAV app. instead of the English one.

Perhaps picky, but it is a good example to show how the manufacturers/distributors treat their customers.
Their thinking seems to be, "if they can fit it themselves, why should we bother to tailor the units for the destination country, let them do it themselves"

Just seems to be poor customer service to me.

Anyway, I'm pretty happy with the unit's performance so far, apart from one instance of locking up when I had to reset the unit via the pinhole in the front.

Cheers, Tony.
VW EOS 2ltr. 2007 Black Auto.  TV/video engineer, networking and Sysadmin tech.  Certifired Trainer, taxi driver, potable and swimming water systems engineer, Home theatre installations/repairs, Home automation C-Bus2 certified. now retired.
This install write-up details my attempt at installing a new Android Head unit and a wireless reversing camera to the number plate location.

These are the components I installed:

The Joying Head Unit specific to the VW EOS series direct from Joying:

The Number Plate reversing camera Amazon: [/url] Item model number: Y0805

The wireless sender/receiver kit Amazon: R0026UK

I also ordered a dashcam to suit but returned it as I wanted speed/date/time stamps on the recordings, not many have this.

To start I decided to install the number plate reversing camera. My original intention was to wire the sender in the boot, but after struggling for several hours to find a suitable entry point I gave up and placed it behind the rear bumper.

This is a picture showing the rear number plate cavity:
[Image: GyLOEsVl6bT5Cx--GbjHgQfpcW4pRqW_Zhw2iBwo...ize_mode=3]

The two number plate lights have 2 x 20 torx screws and also are clipped into the cavity.
I carefully shaved the inside corner off the right hand lamp assembly just enough to squeeze the power cable through. The rear of the vehicle is double-skinned and this makes it very difficult to find cable entry points and to feed wires through it.
First remove the rear panel, pull the weatherstrip starting next to the boot lid latch. Using a hard plastic tool I was able to easily remove the strip. There are two 20 torx plasic lugs retaining this panel, easily accessed from the open boot. Remove them and the plasic retainers. Once the rear panel is free, work the top of the panel over the boot lid catch so the whole thing is loose. Then give a sharp upward tug and the rear panel comes away, don't move it too much as the courtesy light is attached to it. Reach under the freed panel and detach the plug, set this panel safely aside.
[Image: gqUCWrzSO4S8ylEQclxcn1Gs7HhzLQRp1Ht2eGSi...ize_mode=3]

The next picture shows the boot catch motor and the roof pump with it's cover on. This back panel is the double-skinned one.

[Image: G6MSiw77NCKbmdwgNiaMh7u1AKuvH_wK_8Yei8LV...ize_mode=3]

Because I have a tow-hitch installed, my installation is easier than most!
[Image: XoiDy9y5BgtSSeb35pRnYeB185002kRk23RMCFZR...ize_mode=3]

[Image: A8TcHym410YaITvk55DBi63Z04ZqBpgE6i1t1r6X...ize_mode=3]

This is the other side, boot interior:
[Image: md074B_w3kSA_e2-mHKR_PKq6ApwQ3gaAb16e_aX...ize_mode=3]

I then looked for a suitable power source. Unfortunately, all the power sources were behind the left-hand panel of the boot interior (as seen from the vehicle rear).
This panel is a real pain to remove, lots of pulling and pushing grazed fingers and grunting involved. There are several more of the 20 Torx plastic screws and their holders, some hidden underneath projecting car parts, look carefully to get them all.
The major problem is the roof lid safety switch, fixed to and located underneath this panel.
[Image: XBC0c2pZ6q-0_voaUmtwxdTeGp-GFQ4sG1t6zKSO...ize_mode=3]

The opposite side has no switch
[Image: nQwmu6MsWabArS6hpKhNSf8l6_W27OAK1YsYLTKd...ize_mode=3]

There is a small peg to the left, this has a plastic cover which will ping off when you finally get to move this cover. Make sure you retrieve it from wherever it lands in the boot interior.
 [Image: jUudw8obxEoo0IT7Rv3FkBvDcTerbxWBdkOMFRl2...ize_mode=3]

Be very careful at this point, the switch attached to the underside of the cover has a VERY short cable, and will detach itself from the switch holder. See the next 'photos to show how it goes back (lots of contortion and more grazed knuckles involved).

Continued in part 2........

To continue the install, be very careful with this switch, it absolutely MUST go back in it's correct location, otherwise the roof will not work.

[Image: vBzk3NsPilWnKkNtv9sZYusjImDMq9ygY4udF4tY...ize_mode=3]

carefully separate the switch from it's holder....
[Image: qmkfkgRDfb1yg0kA16Chbn79K4bFEFYvPYM2siab...ize_mode=3]

A very short lead....

[Image: KbxestWjvbewA9aAou5ObQdb3E-QKXxAs4DsLNfq...ize_mode=3]

Inside the boot left electrics location

[Image: fCAosGv3sHtGXX0IND03v44Z1y5n2DrFlHaO7AFA...ize_mode=3]

And after the spaghetti has been moved a bit, this is the controller for the rear car electrics

[Image: ypNQdabAj8eF5HGho_BceEzJsMAM_cH0TmmiAJvv...ize_mode=3]

I always solder rather than use the crimp-on connectors in cars, this way I know the contact is good and will survive.

[Image: okL6HFDT9f6ogZMHxPdKRy_Wrd2VN3C0OoDysEr4...ize_mode=3]

That's it for the reversing camera installation, put all panels back (after testing of course).
Continued in Part 3........

The Head unit install replaces the old MFD2 factory head unit. Mine had a Bluetooth parrot installed (rather sloppily) and an auxiliary USB and iPod adaptor as a factory fitted accessory.

This is the original unit:

[Image: 6hv_MiigI1i3tfpcipUnSxZXMwU828nO1zRqQkcm...ize_mode=3]

Start by removing the plastic trim with a plastic pry tool, take your time, it will pop off easily, be careful not to break the centre thin part which is above the aircon controls.

[Image: ARzuQxW27kDQAg-Zl2iL1uF9JIa43IjcHT6foEEz...ize_mode=3]

Remove the 4 20 Torx screws and withdraw the old Head Unit.

[Image: DCZiyNxIkJIZX8dvHJSSoTAD97t2xx24TbwGROgf...ize_mode=3]

[Image: zB0r5KYvCTKocOg3Z9YVdEmTIkdhGqHSx8Yx9ZnZ...ize_mode=3]

This is the old unit with the parrot and aux components. (make me an offer!)
[Image: DrfvFMECMRuWVPmEzu2IMMw7AEN2Bqb9mxHBQRmQ...ize_mode=3]

Now remove the aircon outlets above the radio hole. There are 2 Torx 20 at an angle, accessible now the radio has been removed.

[Image: 38uX18rygDOh7d_2kpU_lt3jQe1LwaKZkkRwJdRE...ize_mode=3]

Once they are removed gently pry up the air ducts

[Image: -ibQLX39ZIHAvvzlWE0nazfp7mSy4uQLtQSJ5XHZ...ize_mode=3]

Set the airducts aside just pop them on the dash top, the cables will stretch. Then decide where you want the GPS aerial to go. I put mine underneath the dash as shown here:

[Image: 0thxb46L0aAYEaqYlMoi_ImZzmbs7UZjpOxvnmTx...ize_mode=3]

This is the rear view of the new head unit:

[Image: B9XzPsZu3J8FFRrPcwxdEicCeQucFgM4b9YBFc5C...ize_mode=3]

Dress the leads carefully, attach the rear-view camera wireless receiver to the camera
input of the HU and gently place on top of the gear or auto-shift lever to test.

I will upload a video of my first test to my dropbox account and post a link here.

Here is a link to my dropbox folder with the initial switch-on: [url=]

This is a picture of the reverse camera image. It is satisfactory, but does tend to flicker a bit, probably because of the wireless transmission. It does the job, and makes it easier for me to avoid the bloody cat.

[Image: NX3HY_6J1kfIaB4J9TEQNL-P0Nf25fGeyGiZCX0F...ize_mode=3]

As you will see from the video, the unit starts up in German, this is really not acceptable when the manufacturer knows it's headed for the UK market. Also the inbuilt navigation app. is also in German with no way to change it. This is not good enough. On the other hand it is very easy to download any app. from the Google store so it is only the time and effort involved in replacing the app.

My first impressions are it behaves pretty much like a standard tablet with a few extras thrown in. The wireless works well, as does the bluetooth. Calls in and out are handled seamlessly, as is streaming music or video from my ZTE Axon Elite smartphone. It works with a 64gb micro sd card well in the front slot, I am able to install applications and run video and music.
The installed music player is not brilliant, I installed Folder-Media instead, much better.

All in all I am very pleased with this unit so far, the actual install of the radio was a piece of cake.


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